Camouflage in the Concrete Jungle
Amidst the humid tropics of the Vietnam War, an unlikely symbol of defiance and rebellion emerged, the OG-107. More than just a military uniform, the drab green shirt and pants have come to symbolise anti-establishment sentiment, counterculture values and a complete rejection of the mainstream. Surplus uniforms have been adopted by subcultures all over the world, weaving their way into the fabric of rebellion and identity for many on the fringes of society.
The OG-107 was the standard uniform for all branches of the United States Armed Forces from 1952 until its discontinuation in 1989. Although it was introduced during the Korean War, the uniform was standardized at the outset of the Vietnam War, becoming the primary attire during Vietnam’s complex struggle for independence. OG-107 was designated as the official title for the uniform based on the U.S. Army’s colour-code “Olive Green 107”. Three models of the uniform existed; however, they all shared several basic design features. All versions of the uniform consisted of 8.5 oz. (240g) cotton sateen dyed the iconic green colour. Moreover, the uniform allowed freedom to be either tucked or untucked, whilst also allowing soldiers to roll up their sleeves when conditions sufficed. The basic uniform consisted of a shirt and pair of trousers, with utility, functionality and simplicity being at the forefront of design.
Examining the uniform through societal, philosophical, and economic perspectives reveals the profound influence of this unassuming garment on culture, identity, and fashion. In the following essay, we will delve into the uniform’s evolution, tracing its journey from its original role within the United States military to its prominent place within counterculture movements, demonstrations and protests.
Due to the rapid response required by imminent war, the OG-107 was mass manufactured by various textile and garment manufacturers across the United States under government contracts. Production occurred all over the nation however all manufacturers were subject to rigorous requirements for quality, durability and standardisation (Stanton, 1998). This ensured cohesiveness throughout all uniforms, as materials, patterns, pockets and buttons were all exact.
Moreover, all manufacturers used 8.5 oz cotton sateen with the iconic olive-green dye. The fabric allowed for comfort and breathability, particularly during the tropical Vietnam afternoons, with cottons absorbent properties keeping the wearer dry and comfortable. The cotton was often woven in a ripstop, providing durability and longevity to the affordable cotton. Olive Green 107 was chosen as the standard colour for the uniform as it is an effective camouflage across a range of conditions, whilst being recognisable and distinct from the clothes of a civilian.
As mentioned briefly, three versions of the uniform exist, with these being referred to as Type I, Type II and Type III. Throughout all versions, simplicity and utility are emphasised, with only small adjustments being made based on field-wear and user feedback. Type I OG-107 uniforms were manufactured for 10 years from their initial production in 1952. This model was the simplest of all, featuring a sleeve without any cuffing or buttoning, only a straight hem at the cuff, as seen in figure one. The jacket featured two chest patch pockets, whilst the pants had two patch pockets in the front and two in the back. The pockets on the jacket and backside of the trousers both featured a rectangular pocket flap that buttoned. A buttoned adjustment tab was added to the waist to ensure proper fit. The simplicity of the pattern allowed for mass-production in an easily replicable way, ensuring unity and cohesiveness across battalions (Macfarlane, 2019).
Type II was a short-lived model of the uniform that was only manufactured from 1963 through 1964. It featured no changes of note from Type I, besides a minor adjustment on the pattern of the pockets, with them no longer being rectangular. Type III is the most common model of the uniform, being distributed from 1966 to 1975. This model featured a number of changes from the first two. Notably, the shirt now featured buttoned cuffs, with the buttons also being changed from a dark brown (1950s) or dark green (1960s) colour to a dull, plastic green (Muzquiz, 2018). Furthermore, the waist adjustment tab was removed, with sizing now being based on specific measurements opposed to the letter-based sizing of the past. Pants were now measured in waist and inseam lengths, ensuring a comfortable, tailored fit during those long days in the trenches. Throughout the 1970s the successor of the OG-107 was largely adopted. The OG-507 was essentially the same pattern as the Type III, however was now manufactured from a poly-cotton blend.
As a result of the United States quest for colonisation, the OG-107 was adopted by militaries across South America, the Middle East and Asia. These countries often had alliances with the United States and were supplied with uniforms through weapons and equipment drops. Many of these countries continued to wear the uniform after the United States retired it, including Thailand’s Territorial Defence Students, a military youth organisation, who still wear it to this day. Interestingly, Iran actually had a camouflaged variant that was worn during the Iran-Iraq War (Campbell, 2021).
The OG-107 uniform was also widely adopted by anti-war protestors during the Vietnam era. The uniform became a symbol of rebellion and rejection of the United States’ intervention in Vietnam. It was frequently seen among the passionate crowds of peace signs and flower crowns that lined the streets during that tumultuous time. Due to the large-scale production, civilians could easily source affordable surplus uniforms from army surplus stores. Furthermore, returning veterans who protested the unjust invasion often wore their service uniforms while marching for peace. Much like the soldiers abroad, counter-culturalists favoured the uniforms for their durability and availability, with sets available for as little as $2 each. The popularity of the OG-107 reached its peak in September 1971 when John Lennon graced the stage of the Dick Cavett Show (Muzquiz, 2018). He expressed the anti-war sentiments of the youth to the masses while draped in an OG-107 jacket gifted to him by a Korean War veteran (Moffit, 1971).
In the 1970s, the uniform was adopted by London skinheads, with the pants being particularly popular. They were often referred to as “army greens” or “dockers” due to their popularity among dock workers. By this time, surplus uniforms had become readily available in UK stores at affordable prices. The Skinhead movement had its own style manual, dictating that the trousers had to be worn short at a length of 20 inches to display their Doc Marten boots (Garfield, 2007). The availability of these pants provided working-class youth with an easily recognizable identity and served as a rejection of mainstream fashion, expressing pride in their backgrounds. Furthermore, the adoption of these pants conveyed sentiments of anti-establishment and resistance to authority (Hynds, 2019).
The uniform has since been adopted by numerous subcultures over the years. Punks have embraced the uniform within their DIY philosophy, adorning the green jackets with studs, patches, and pins. Skateboarders have favoured the uniform for its durability, making it ideal for withstanding hard falls and big drops onto concrete. Unsurprisingly, mainstream fashion has also turned its attention to the uniform, with many fashion houses producing their variations on the classic pattern.
The OG-107 has found its place in various subcultures since it began appearing in surplus stores in the 1960s. While these subcultures have adopted the uniform for different reasons, a recurring philosophy has been present — a rejection of the establishment, anti-materialism, and anti-authoritarian sentiments. The uniform has seen widespread emergence in surplus stores across the globe, leading to its global popularity. It symbolizes a rejection of materialism, prioritising function and comfort over fleeting trends. The wearer is provided with a sense of individuality and authenticity, an assurance that they are not falling into the traps of capitalism. Furthermore, the uniform serves as an act of defiance against the government and the military-industrial complex through subverting the authority conveyed by the uniform.
The OG-107 uniform transcends its military origins to stand as a symbol of multifaceted significance. It became a canvas for various subcultures, offering a tangible expression of identity, rebellion, and authenticity to those who wore it. Vietnam War protestors wore the drab olive as a rejection of the establishment and government hierarchy, while London skinheads adopted it as a source of working-class pride and community. Throughout all these subcultures, defiance towards the status quo and rejection of mainstream norms have consistently been conveyed through the uniform. The versatility, durability, and availability of the uniform undoubtedly enhanced its popularity and widespread adoption. By subverting the authority portrayed by the uniform, counter-culturalists expressed anti-government, anti-materialism, and anti-authoritarian sentiments. In a world of fast fashion and fleeting trends, the OG-107 continues to thrive as a timeless reminder of the power of clothing to convey identity, beliefs, and sentiments, particularly when utilized and adopted as a uniform.
Garfield, S. (2007, April 1). Getting under their skins. The Observer. https://www.theguardian.com/film/2007/apr/01/features.photography
Hynds, M. (2019, November 26). Skinheads. Museum of Youth Culture. https://museumofyouthculture.com/skinheads/
Macfarlane, C. (2019, August 24). A True ‘OG’: The US Army’s Olive Green Utility Uniform. Standard & Strange. https://standardandstrange.com/blogs/standard-strange-stories/a-true-og-the-us-army-s-olive-green-utility-uniform
McNab, C. (2022). Armies of the Iran–Iraq War 1980–88 (1st edition). Osprey Publishing.
Moffit, J. (Director). (1971, September 11). John Lennon on Dick Cavett. In The Dick Cavett Show. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kXCnKfdGOY
Muzquiz, A. (2018, July 2). The History of the OG-107 Jungle Jacket from Vietnam to John Lennon. Heddels. https://www.heddels.com/2018/07/the-history-of-the-og-107-jungle-jacket/
Stanton, S. L. (1998). U. S. Army Uniforms of the Cold War, 1948–1973. Stackpole Books.
Thomas, S. S. K. (1986). A Bolivian soldier armed with a Belgian-designed 7.62 FN FAL rifle stands guard during Fuerzas Unidas Bolivia, a joint U.S. and Bolivian training exercise. DF-ST-87–02147. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bolivian_soldier_armed_with_a_FN_FAL_stands_guard_during_Fuerzas_Unidas_Bolivia.jpg
